Cutting edge chemistry and AI at Newcastle Helix leads to innovation in cosmetic industry

Two companies based at Newcastle Helix - Hexis Lab and NewChem Technologies - are revolutionising the cosmetics industry through scientific innovation, resulting in better outcomes for consumers.

Hexis Lab CEO Sola Idowu & Professor Bernard Golding

Combining decades of scientific expertise, the partnership between Hexis Lab CEO, Sola Idowu, and NewChem Technologies renowned chemist Bernard Golding, also an Emeritus Professor at Newcastle University, has blossomed at Newcastle Helix, yielding innovative solutions aimed at creating safer, more sustainable cosmetic products.

The resulting revolutionary shampoo and conditioner, address the unique needs of women with Type 3 and Type 4 textured hair, which is more prone to damage and requires specialised care. The new Layla & Kays shampoo and conditioner products are now available online and through various retailers in India.

The development of the hair care products has been driven by a deep commitment to scientific research and collaboration. Professor Bernard Golding’s  expertise in synthetic organic chemistry has been crucial in improving the solubility and functionality of natural ingredients used in Hexis Lab's products.

Hexis Lab are also pioneers in advanced AI technology for ingredient validation and natural ingredient testing. This positions the company at the forefront of the beauty industry, offering cutting-edge solutions that combine science and nature, to produce genuinely inclusive products.

Hair is categorised into four categories from straight, blonde, European hair, which is called a Type 1, to an African hair, which is tight and coily, which is Type 4. The inspiration for this product line is personal for Sola, whose journey from Nigeria to Newcastle has taken in Stanford University and NASA.

Motivated by the challenges his daughter, a national swimmer with textured hair, faced in finding suitable hair care products, Sola set out to create a solution that would meet the needs of people with similar hair types.

"We wanted to create something that wasn't just another product on the shelf, but one that truly meets the needs of those with textured hair," Sola said. "Our goal is to provide effective care while minimising damage, something that’s often overlooked in mainstream hair care products."

Hexis Lab and NewChem Technologies are based at The Biosphere at Newcastle Helix where they do the discovery, testing and validation of ingredients for different applications.

Their partnership, which began in 2019, is rooted in their shared passion for solving complex problems through chemistry and their mutual interest in lipids, a field that has significant implications for both medical and cosmetic applications.

Sola Idowu said: “Without the fantastic facilities of the biosphere in Newcastle Helix, I'm not sure this would be possible. Well, we wouldn't have met for a start without the creation of this building. Having our labs quite close to one another very much helps the collaboration.

"We are excited to introduce a product line that not only offers effective care for textured hair but also reflects our commitment to innovation and quality. Our aim is to provide products that truly meet the specific needs of those with curly and kinky hair, ensuring their hair remains healthy and strong."

In addition to the product launch, Hexis Lab is expanding its global footprint. The company is targeting the Indian market, which has a significant population with textured hair, and plans to extend its reach to Africa and other international markets.

In line with their commitment to sustainability, Golding and Sola have also innovated by significantly reducing the number of ingredients in shampoos and conditioners, from the industry standard to just four or five. This minimalist approach not only simplifies product formulations but also reduces the environmental impact, aligning with growing consumer demand for eco-friendly products.

"The creation of the biosphere in Newcastle Helix has been absolutely vital for our success. Collaborating with Sola has been a fulfilling experience, combining our strengths to tackle complex challenges and create products that are not only innovative but also safer for consumers," said Professor Golding.

As Hexis Lab continues to innovate and grow, it remains committed to delivering high-quality, research-backed products that cater to the diverse needs of its global customer base.

John Seager, Estates Director, Newcastle Helix said: “This partnership exemplifies the power of collaboration in driving forward scientific innovation. We are very proud that Newcastle Helix has facilitated this relationship to grow. As Professor Golding and Sola continue to explore new possibilities in cosmetic chemistry, their work promises to set new standards in the industry.”